Stars such as Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor became style ambassadors for Italian fashion in the 1950s and 1960s and this exhibition from the Victoria and Albert Museum aims to trace the history of Italian Glamour from 1945 to the Present day. Told by the companies that contributed to the glamour, on display will be around 100 ensembles and accessories by leading Italian fashion houses including Simonetta, Pucci, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino, Gucci, Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Prada and Versace, through to the next generation of fashion talent.
Opening next week on 4 March at The Little Black Gallery, London, is a new exhibition from Australian artist Vee Speers. Bordello is a searing vision of Parisian decadence, taking inspiration from the interiors and vibrancy of the city in the 1920s and 1930s. Shot on location in Paris, Speers’ work is set against the backdrop of surviving bordellos, where the lavish interiors have been preserved. Her photographs provide a seductive exploration of the female form and are produced using a hand-rendered Fresson charcoal process, lending Speer’s images an authentic quality.
Showcasing an international comprehension of design, Mercedes Benz Kiev Fashion Days were back this season to celebrate their second year at London Fashion Week. Almost functioning as a taster menu the designers were stacked eclectically back to back. The talent came from emerging designers such as: Anna K, Lara Quint, Lera Leshchova, Paskal, Irina Krasilnikova and Yasya Minochkina.
Cult cool, design duo Virginia Ferreira and Chris Neuman never fail to cause a stir. However this season they have steered away from their archetypal East London look, citing their muse as the refined “Parisian woman”. The show notes told a tale of an “Iconic Parisian woman during the devastation of WWI” although it was immediately apparent that their vision was not one of a victim.
In a city where dining experiences “pop-up”, sales flash, and oysters are a tasteless travel ticket, fashion has had to break from a light jog into a sprint. Ready for submersion into a harsh urban sphere, Bernard Chandran’s AW14 collection channels all of the strongest parts of menswear tailoring, with the cinching and finesse of women’s wear.
Fashion house, Bottega Veneta, has joined forces with South African photographer, Pieter Hugo, to shoot the Spring /Summer campaign. Every season the new collection is conceived and captured by an exceptional photographer in conjunction within Creative Director Tomas Maier. Other artists to have worked for the house include Alex Prager, Nan Goldin, Sam Taylor-Wood and many more. The Art of Collaboration is a series of films documenting Maier and Hugo’s vision, unifying fashion and art in a stylish and creative film.
Rankin, artist Johny Dar and model and actress, Tuuli Shipster, have teamed up to produce the stunning calendar, Tuuli by DAR. Inspired by the artist’s art series, DAR the BOOK, Dar hand-painted his designs directly onto Tuuli’s body, transforming her into twelve different forms that were captured by Rankin. Dar cast his beautiful designs across Tuuli’s bare skin, tailoring every brush stroke to her body, and to her emotional response to each colour and pattern. Aesthetica speaks to the artist about his approach to this unique project and his plans for the future.
You can now read Aesthetica Magazine wherever you are with our new digital subscriptions accessible via iPad, iPhone and Android devices. A bi-monthly publication, Aesthetica brings you the latest news in contemporary art and culture. It is the ultimate destination for discovering industry developments, ground-breaking exhibitions and world-class artists.
Experimentation is the key component to innovation. It’s essential to try new things and to gather your inspiration from as many sources as possible. This means that you have to step outside of your comfort zone from time to time, and engage with something that you might not normally encounter. Inside Issue 57, we begin with a discussion around the parameters of photography and the role that light, colour and subject play with What Is a Photograph?
Berlin Fashion Week drew to a close on 19 January and Aesthetica takes a look at some of the trends beginning to emerge in streetwear. Bright trade show presented some of the biggest competitors in the casual streetwear market and drew a sharp contrast with the trends appearing at high-end presentations such as Premium and Bread & Butter. It appears that where high-end fashion is rejecting Modernism in favor of a simple lifestyle and clothing to match, casualwear is embracing the technological revolution and the hectic lifestyle to go with it. However, regardless of the ideological differences, there were still some strong similarities throughout.
The Bread & Butter trade show at Berlin Fashion Week demonstrates the importance of the craft behind the garment. The emphasis on heritage, bespoke tailoring and quality was apparent even within the retail environments and visual merchandising. One of the reoccurring interior design elements of the show was reminiscent of classic style Swiss chalets, featuring excessive amounts of animal hides, piles of chopped wood and mounted animal horns. In keeping with this theme, Bread & Butter present a “new gentleman” trend, full of lumberjack shirts, leather boots and thick knit jumper and hats.
Entering the Capsule trade show at Berlin Fashion Week was like entering the height of shabby-chic. Minimal metal bars displaying clothes stood alongside bare wooden crates, industrial concrete flooring and original brick walls. The interior of this urban factory-style building reflected the trends that would be found in the Spring /Summer 14 collections. Aesthetica takes a look at the trends emerging at the start of Berlin Fashion Week.